I am living in the area of Istanbul called Ulus, which is a very nice upper middle class, quiet place. But it's residential and doesn't feel like a neighborhood. What I consider my neighborhood is Ortakoy, just a walk down the hill. When I'm not doing anything else, I walk down there in the evenings. The people at Starbucks know me, when they see me they say "Briget!" (they know because they write it on the cup of course! And they remembered. And they pronounce it "Burget") The people at my little grocery store know me, the people at the sweet shop know me (oh the baklava!!). I buy stuffed mussels from the same street vendor every time. And when they realize you are more than a tourist, they treat you differently. The guy at the sweet shop throws in a few more baklava -- last week they gave me a box of fresh...something between a bagel and a doughnut? Just gave it to me. They were filling up the boxes when I was in there, to sell. The grocer had me for tea one day, and tried to talk English with me :-) (BTW, I don't think I can pronounce a single Turkish word properly!) Oh you would think I'd be getting fat, all this talk of food, but I must walk it off because I haven't gained any.

Ortakoy is a very diverse neighborhood and very tolerant. Greeks, Turks, Armenians and Jews all live there. There are art galleries, restaurants, cafes, bars and two really magnificent nightclubs - Angelique and Reina. http://www.reina.com.tr/2007/ An odd thing here - there are summer nightclubs in Istanbul and winter nightclubs. These are the most popular of the summer nightclubs and right on the Bosphorus. Lots of fun!! Although I haven't been inside, the Ciragan Palace Kempinsky is here: http://www.kempinski-istanbul.com/en/hotel/index.htm?item_id=37670 Imagine staying there!! There is an old Hamam which is closed, unfortunately, right across from the entrance to the "square". The square itself is fantastic for people-watching!

I'm worried about Nihal. In the spring, before I came, she was very ill for several weeks, she said she was almost paralyzed, couldn't move or eat or talk. The doctor's couldn't figure out what was wrong. Then she got better. But the last few days she has been very very exhausted, her calves and back hurt, she walks stiffly and she looks horrible. She cried today in the kitchen and said she was scared what will happen to her. I think something is seriously wrong with her. :-( Her husband, sorry to say, doesn't seem to take this seriously? I believe she should be in a hospital getting every test in the book and he should take her. But he just ignores it.

Meanwhile, Ece wants to know my logon password so we can have the same passwords. I can't make her understand that passwords are supposed to be secret :-) Defne went into hysterics today when she saw raspberry juice running down my leg (the bag I had was leaking and I didn't know it.) She thought it was blood. She screamed like she did when the dogs ran into my bedroom, then ran and wouldn't look at me again for a long time, she didn't believe it was juice. So, she already has a phobia :-) She got very angry at me a few days ago. I took the girls swimming and Nihal told me not to let Defne jump. Well, of course, Defne jumped, because that's the way she is. Twice I warned her not to do it. The third time she jumped, I had to physically drag her from the pool and carry her kicking and screaming up to the apartment to stay with the nanny. She hasn't jumped since :-)